Basic Convertible Collar Shirt Muslin No. 2.0

And here is draft 2.0.  Much better!  Not perfect, but getting there.  I ended up taking out approximately 3" from the centre back: 1" through a shoulder seam swayback adjustment, and then a 2" tuck in the bottom back piece, tapering to nothing at the sides.

The slightly larger French darts are certainly more attractive.

When I first sewed this up, the side seams looked even worse however.  I ended up getting fed up, lined up the front and back so it looked "right" and sewed a straight seam right from the armhole.  It looked much better, but was a touch snug around the hip.  To fix this, I started at the waist and added about 1.5" of flare- you can see this if you follow the lines of the weird plaid pattern at the side seam.  It still isn't perfectly centred/straight, but it's better.

There's just a touch of strain from the bust to the shoulder.  A PR member suggested about 1/4" wedge to be added at the shoulder seam at the outside, tapering to nothing at the neck.

I'll made the pinned/suggested changes, and then it's onto... dum, dum, dum... SLEEVES.  Eek.

Basic Convertible Collared Shirt Muslin No. 1

Here is the first draft of the pattern for a basic convertible collared shirt from the tape body cast.  Before I started drafting, I also traced out two different shirts that fit well  in different ways, as well as looking at the pattern and instructions of Simplicity 6526 in order to have a better idea of what would need to be altered from the "second skin" pattern.

• Below bust/shoulder blade  darts were ignored (which caused a significant problem which is outlined below)
• Shoulder darts were rotated into the yoke and bust dart
• Yoke extended over the front of the shoulder slightly
• Side shaping was kept to a minimum

Below, you can see how it looked sewn up (click for a larger image).  I was pretty happy that it turned out this well for a first try.  I then took these pictures to PR to get some advice on adjustments.

 The main problems:

• #1 was that the back length is too long at the centre.  You can see this in how the line above the lilac strip sags when seen from the front and side and big swoops appear
• The bust looks a bit tight but feels fine.  The darts would look nicer as French darts with a by product of adding a touch of shaping below the bust if they are made a touch larger to "borrow" some under bust dart.
• The side seam is a bit too far forward, and there is a jog where the dart hits it.
• Shoulders are potentially too wide.  I'm hesitant about this because I haven't had success adjusting sleeves to account for wide shoulders.  I really want to be able to reach forward and cross my arms.  This is really a huge deal for me.

The reason the back length was so, so long is because I have a pronounced curve to my back (requiring two 2" darts)- much more so than my front which I am considering essentially flat for something this unfitted.  If you have the opposite shape, I expect you might run into the same issue, but on your front.  This means that without a dart, the fabric at the centre back has less distance to travel and should be the flat distance from below the shoulder.  You can see how the black line straightens somewhat when darts are loosely pinned in, but still is too long.

Now, onto version 2.0.  There are enough changes, particularly with changing the bust dart, that I think it is worth re-cutting.

Book Review (of a book I can't read): "Super Tailoring" Super Krojenje by Ana Malalan

One night, while searching for some fiction in the library catalog, I had the idea to search for non-English  drafting books, hoping to find a copy some Japanese books such as Drape Drape or Pattern Magic.  While I found several of those, I also found listings for two Chinese books, a Russian book, and this book.  The Chinese books were pretty ...bad... and appear to be knock offs of the simple, loose and cute style patterns in Japanese fashion sewing books.  The Russian book was primarily text for "recipes" of how to draft the sketches shown and while quite interesting, was not the most useful.

And then there was Super Krojenje.  I love this book.  I can't read a single word, but I love it.  According to Google translate it's in Croatian (their email is Slovenian, so I'm not sure), but I really, really hope at some point it gets released in English.

Why do I love it so much?

The illustrations are excellent and the concepts come across very well without any text.  The author does a particularly great job of showing through diagrams how the principles of a 3D geometric shape are transferred into a 2D pattern piece.  The layouts are clear, clean and easy to read (if you read Croatian).

I will be writing to the author to present my interest in an English republication, and I suggest anyone who can find a copy at their library take a look.

Here's a sampler of the book on issu: http://issuu.com/gorances/docs/superkrojenje-web